Bocas del Toro or “Mouth of the Bull” province is located Northwest of Panama. Found close to Costa, it comprisesof the mainland and nine Islands. The capital Bocas Town is located on Isla Colon (The only Island with cars) and is where I stayed for four days.
After visiting Boquete,in the Chiriqui province,, I travelled by car to Almirante and then by boat to Isla Colon. The route from Boquete to Almirante was serene; you reach a high altitude as you traverse the mountains and along the way pass several hydroelectric stations and lakes. It is also possible to fly from Panama City to Bocas del Toro, but since it was my first time I wanted to see everything.
Boat from Almirante to Isla Colon
After settling in at a friend’s house on Isla Colon, I went for a late lunch and had the most popular dish on the island, fried fish with Patacones.
Pescado Frito con Patacones
Patacones are a staple in Panama and it’s served by having the plantain boiled, flattened, and then fried. I absolutely love it and it’s something I miss having.
After a long day I went home to read a book on the terrace and enjoy the breeze from the sea. On the way home I came across the fire fighters on the island and the vintage firefighting truck they have on display.
Vintage Fire Fighting Truck at Isla Colon
Bocas Town is often known for its party life, so this it’s the place to visit if you’re looking for fun.
On the first full day I took a tour around the Bocas del Toro Archipelago.
We passed several mangrove swamps and It was amazing to see all the Starfish in the water!
Starfish at Bocas del Toro
Our guide grabbed one and turned it around so we could see its teeth and we actually saw it as it finished swallowing some coral.
He explained that starfish can only survive a few seconds without water. As we looked on in disbelief, he submerged it under water every two seconds to avoid it from losing all its water. Additionally it should never be held tilted because it loses its water even faster. It is said they become stressed only by being picked up.
I went past Changinola (the Island closest to Isla Colon), Bastimentos which is the largest Island and stopped at Isla Coral or “Coral Island”. There, you can find a restaurant and a few residences built on top of the water. The restaurant serves local food and can be ordered so that when you arrive after the tour it’s ready.
Village about the sea at Isla Coral at Bocas del Toro
At Isla Coral I saw several fish including a marlin, silverfish and…
Marlin near Isla Coral
Silverfish (unfortunately you cannot see that it is silver in the picture)
From Isla Coral I could already see our destination which was Isla Zapatilla “Shoe Island”. I am not sure why it has that name. There are two Zapatilla Islands and we stopped off at the second one.
Approaching Isla Zapatilla at Bocas del Toro
As we approached it was impressive to see the clear. pristine water, the deserted Island, and the fallen palm trees due to tropical storms. This island is one of the furthest Islands from the mainland and the closest to the open Atlantic Ocean. The water surrounding the island is peaceful – with the coral reef surrounding the island, with waves from the Atlantic, and a strong current.
Fallen palm trees around Isla Zapatilla
The Island is located in one of the two national parks and once you arrive, you will have to pay a fee for entering protected land. The one I first visited was called the Isla Bastimentos National Marine Park while the other one was the La Amistad international Park.
IslaZapatilla and its clear waters and palm trees
I spent a few hours walking around the beautiful,quite Island and luckily I did not run into any crocodiles! The beach was incredibly clean and the reflection of the sunshine on the clear water was dazzling. After swimming for some time we began to head back to Isla Colon -approximately 1 hour away with a speed boat.
We were only a few minutes on our way when the tour guide turned off the boat and we spotted some dolphins.
Dolphins at Bocas del Toro, Panama
I had never seen dolphins before so I was ecstatic!
As we continued on our way back we stopped at an island where we saw Sloths.
Sloth hanging in the tree at Bocas del Toro
I also saw a Stingray but was not fast enough to take a picture of it.
We continued and stopped at a mangrove swamp where I learnt more than I ever expected about sea creatures.
Mangrove swamp at Bocas del Toro- there are so many of these!
The first creature we came across was a sea Urchin. I have an ambiguous memory of stepping on one when I was small and it looks as scary as it was painful!
Black Sea Urchin at Bocas del Toro Panama
A smaller and white Sea Urchin at Bocas del Toro
There are white and black Sea Urchins and if you relax your hand and it is placed on it, it will not sting you and rather slowly crawl across your hand. I did not dare!
Then we came across a Sea Cucumber which also does not look too appealing but apparently is considered a delicacy in China.
Sea Cucumber at Bocas del Toro
I also saw many more Starfish in all colors and sizes!
A little Star Fish at Bocas del Toro
A green Star Fish
One of the strangest things I saw that day was Sea Sponge.
Red Sea sponge at a Mangrove Swamp in Bocas del Toro
Sea Sponge’s are made up of trapped water and the most amazing part is that they are in many colors including red, yellow, purple, orange and my personal favorite, pink. It is funny how going past a Mangrove swamp if you look at the plant roots in the water it is easy to spot the sponge!
Finally we headed back to Isla Colon, where I relaxed for a while before taking a bike ride around the island to discover what it has to offer. I found riding a bicycle one of the easiest and most pleasant ways to get around the island and as it is very popular, there are several places where you can rent a bike.
Biking around Bocas Town at Isla Colon
There are many supermarkets on the island including a Kosher supermarket, several boutiques and many restaurants and bars and if in doubt, just head to the main road. After a delicious dinner and some Mojito’s I called it a night.
On my last full day at Bocas del Toro I went to the famous Playa Estrella or “Star Beach” which is located in Isla Colon and a 15 minute drive and five minute speed boat ride from the town’s center.
Playa Estrella at Isla Colon
This beach was very different to the one I went to the day before. Firstly, the sand was black and there was no current – due to the shallow waters it’s the perfect place to visit with children.
This beach has many small restaurants along the coast all offering similar dishes and lounge chairs for their customers. As you may have guessed the beach gets its name from having a natural pool of Starfish that are highly protected by the locals.
Starfish at Isla Estrella
I spent a long and warm day at the beach. Afterwards, I went to the Aqua lounge on the Island Changinola to enjoy my last night, which is a quick speed boat ride away from the town center.
After buying a few souvenirs, I left the Island around midday and headed back to Boquete to enjoy some cool breeze before heading back to the city.
Good Bye Isla Colon and Bocas del Toro!!
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Tips:
- Take a liter of water per person when going on a tour of the islands as you get dehydrated quickly
- Protection against the sun is vital!
- When you visit other islands, it is recommended to be with someone that knows the area well.
- Do not forget mosquito repellent! Especially later in the afternoon
- Take sufficient cash as there is only one ATM on the island
- Take several bathing suits because it is very humid and clothes don’t dry!
